The idea of taking a trip to Scotland all started with my friend Casey. She taught me how to knit, and she knew that there was a fiber festival in Scotland. We both love yarn, hiking, sampling food and beverage, and share a sense of curiosity and wonder. She was in Europe for a work conference and had a week between that trip and visiting her brother in France, so we wedged in our wooly Scotland trip to Edinburgh and the Isle of Skye.
Preparing for the Journey
While still at home, we set our priorities for the trip. We wanted to ensure enough space in the schedule for whims and readjustment, but we didn’t want it to be so open that we languished away our limited time. We flew into Edinburgh, so it made sense to bookend our trip with the comforts of a city. Casey was comfortable driving in the UK, so we decided to rent a campervan to give ourselves a tour of the Isle of Skye and enjoy the unique landscape found in Scotland.
Researching Edinburgh: Unveiling the Hidden Gems
First, we asked friends and family familiar with Scotland what they would recommend. It’s always nice to be able to ask for details and avoid pitfalls your friends might have experienced. An added benefit is that you can strengthen your friendships by sharing your experiences, even if you didn’t take the trip together. Their answers were immensely valuable at the grocery store when we were stocking up on food for the camping portion of the trip.
Then, we looked up the typical tourist attractions–historical landmarks, food to make sure to eat, museums, and where Anthony Bourdain would recommend drinking whiskey.
Lastly, we mapped out yarn stores and places that anyone with an appreciation for fiber arts would enjoy. We kept a shared document and made a note of the open hours of places we were considering so that we wouldn’t waste time going somewhere that turned out to be closed. Being aware of bank holidays is also a good practice when traveling.
Must-Visit Landmarks and Historical Sites
Though we didn’t go to any museums in Edinburgh, we walked the Royal Mile up to Edinburgh Castle, an 11th-century structure that houses the Crown Jewels and Scotland’s National War Museum. Along the way, we had our pick of numerous souvenir shops–most had a range of items from inexpensive keychains and magnets to authentic Scottish tartan.
On the walk back to our hotel, we stopped by the Scottish Textiles Showcase, which celebrates traditional craftsmanship. They have beautiful scarves, jackets, bags, canine accessories, and more! The shop is modestly sized and resembles a mix between a carefully-curated museum and a dedicated fiber store. A selection of yarn is available for knitters, weavers, and crocheters. Check out their yarn kits–they come with a pattern and the yarn you need to replicate the sample displayed in-store.
Immersing in Scottish Culture: Food, Beer, and Whiskey
We sought out a balance of more traditional dark bars and elevated eateries. When it comes to food, my favorite was Southpour, where we had a delectable sticky toffee pudding after a delicious dinner. Throughout the week, we tried haggis and sampled some Scottish beers and whiskeys.
Not strictly Scottish, but mind-blowingly delicious was everything we got from BABA. My favorite dish was marinated artichokes, falafel, beetroot hummus, and guindillas.
One of our last stops was to Oxford Bar, a must-stop Edinburgh bar according to Anthony Bourdain and made famous by Ian Rankin’s books. We sat at the bar, which had one other patron who the bartender knew well. The bartender was extremely knowledgeable. We explained that we didn’t usually drink Scotch but were curious to try whatever she’d most recommend. She poured us a glass of her smoothest and smokiest, with a small pitcher of water we could use as desired.
The Isle of Skye: A Paradise for Nature Enthusiasts
The Isle of Skye is a gorgeous area with a low population. Its population is similar to Traverse City, Michigan, but with a population density of only 16 people per square mile. Sheep vastly outnumber people, with a reported 100,000 on Skye. That being said, even in the shoulder season, the influx of tourists is something to plan for. Making dinner reservations is a good idea, and expect to spend some time parking if you’re going to the most popular hiking spots, such as the Old Man of Storr and the Fairy Pools.
Hiking Trails and Ancient Landslides
We decided that our first day in Skye would be our more active day. With great weather in the forecast, we wanted to get some hiking in. We arrived at the Old Man of Storr in the early afternoon, the perfect time as many tourists who came in the morning were leaving. It took us about two hours out and back, with a nice lunch break in the middle, to enjoy the view.
We took an afternoon detour to Shilasdair Yarns, a charming fiber store where the wool is dyed with natural dyes made from plants on the Isle of Skye.
Finishing out the day, we spent a couple more hours hiking Quiraing. I really can’t explain how breathtaking the landscape is! Like Storr, an ancient landslide formed it, creating high cliffs, plentiful plateaus, and seemingly out-of-place rock pinnacles.
Fairy Lore and Castles
We had a bit more rain and dreary weather on our second day. We decided to start the day with some indoor attractions. The Dunvegan Castle is a Hebridean castle the same family has continuously occupied for 800 years. The castle has five buildings built over 650 years, unified in the mid-1800s. Each room has an informational pamphlet and knowledgeable staff member as you work through the self-guided tour. My favorite part was a 4th-century silk flag reportedly left behind by a visiting fairy and containing magical properties.
Outside, we explored extensive themed gardens, including the Walled Garden and the Round Garden. It was incredible how unique each garden was–it felt like traveling to different climates all within the castle grounds.
With the whole afternoon ahead of us, we started driving back toward Edinburgh, with a stop at the Fairy Pools along the way. The Fairy Pools have crystalline water and many small waterfalls. It wasn’t warm enough for us to swim, but we enjoyed the scenery. Due to a misinterpretation of scale, I was convinced we hadn’t made it to the main pool, but when I took out the map, it became clear we had passed it without recognizing it. We turned around as it started to rain and laughed at the mistake on the way to our warm campervan.
Choosing the Perfect Van
We chose Alba Campers, which offers a variety of campervans, making it easy to choose what is best for your itinerary. Our priorities were a protected space to sleep and maneuverability. We chose the smallest option available and still didn’t use all the features!
Opening the hatchback, there was a sink where you could pump water to wash your hands and dishes. We were outfitted with two camp chairs, a folding table, a stove, a small cooler, dishware, and cookware.
Sliding the back doors open revealed the bedroom and dining area. To make the bedroom, simply store your items in the storage area, ensure the floor is flat with the fitted boards, move the front seats forward, and the pads fit perfectly to make a mattress. We didn’t end up eating meals at the table in the van, but it was an option. It was possible to arrange the pads to make a seat with a back when we put in the table post.
We were pleased with the van we chose. There was plenty of space to sleep comfortably, and we were grateful we had the smallest option for fueling up and driving on the single-track roads. Along the way, we saw a group whose full-sized RV was stuck in a ditch and a couple towing a fifth wheel and struggling to get by other vehicles. The campervan costs less to rent than a hotel, and you can’t beat the free seaside camp spots.
Driving on the left side of the road took some getting used to. Fortunately, we didn’t have a strict schedule. We drove at night toward the Isle of Skye so that we’d have the roads to ourselves and could focus more on the signs. The campervan came with a GPS, and we often supplemented it with our phone’s GPS for more peace of mind.
Exploring Yarn Shops and Appreciating Scottish Sheep
On our last day, we sought out one more yarn shop and hoped for more variety than we had seen. Ginger Twist Studio met that desire with numerous hand-dyed yarns and a selection of commercial yarn packed in a small space. Ginger Twist has a cozy feel–yarn is arranged from floor to ceiling with a rolling library ladder. The space is tight, with a capacity of about 4, and requires cooperation to squeeze past one another. The woman working there was knowledgeable about each yarn base and each pattern we mentioned, excitedly pointing us to the yarn that would work best.
Conclusion
Scotland, Edinburgh, and the Isle of Sky have something for everyone. You could easily spend more than a week exploring the different islands and enjoying the diverse cuisine. We felt safe as women travelers and received nothing but hospitality from everyone we interacted with.
It was convenient that our US driver’s licenses enabled us to drive in Scotland and move around. After returning the van, we took a bus back to the city center. Getting around the city on public transit is simple and inexpensive between buses and the light rail.
If I were to plan this trip knowing what we learned along the way, I’d lengthen the trip to at least two weeks, allowing more time for hiking, exploring museums, and enjoying downtime outside. I’d also make dinner reservations on the Isle of Skye ahead of time. We were lucky to be offered food for takeaway or bar seating, but I wouldn’t count on it, especially if you’re traveling during peak tourist times with more than two people in your party.
